All I wanted was a flipping bench
My last two months have been spent in France and Portugal, in small towns by the sea, where I've been with good people, surfing, napping on the beach and attempting to be proactively creative.
I've felt so connected to nature and the elements (definitely sounds lame now I'm writing it) by dipping into the water several times a day, surfing as the sun sets and learning to swim properly (I know, it's embarrassing that I can only do breast stroke). Walking with sand between my toes (sometimes agonisingly hot-not always as idyllic an experience as you'd think), relaxing in the pine forests with squirrels racing up and down the trees and thunder/lightning storms forcing us out of the surf during the day and causing the caravan to leak during the night! Endless moments that I pretty much treasure (even if they don't all sounds so appealing)...especially as I'm now sat in Llanelli, hiding within the safety of a cafe, as it rains-non stop.
I'm attempting to resist complaining, because the truth is that I've been having the most amazing summer and I'm really happy!
A particular highlight was having Matt take photos as I surfed so I could see whether I look as cool as I feel (that's a joke...and I definitely do not) but I have been able to see the areas I've improved, as well as exactly what I've been doing wrong (how after 3 years I hadn't noticed that I surf with my arm behind me I do not know). It's humbling but rewarding-definitely worth having someone take photo's once and a while to help you progress. I've also witnessed 2-3m swell (I would definitely die...or be completely mangled) and photographed Matt completely killing it on his longboard and Hypto. My friend Megan also joined us in France for a week, so having her to surf and hang out with all day was awesome!